different cases rolex 1655 | Rolex 1655 review

The Rolex Explorer II 1655, nicknamed the "Freccione" in Italian for its distinctive large, orange 24-hour hand, holds a unique and fascinating position in the horological landscape. More than just a tool watch, it’s a symbol of exploration, adventure, and a certain rebellious spirit. But within this single reference number lies a surprising amount of variation, not just in dial markings and bezels, but also, crucially, in the very cases that housed these iconic timekeepers. Understanding these subtle differences is essential for collectors, enthusiasts, and anyone considering adding a 1655 to their collection.

This article delves into the nuances of the Rolex Explorer II 1655, covering its history, variations, market value, and everything you need to know before venturing into the world of this celebrated reference. We'll touch upon dial variations, the "Steve McQueen" myth, the intricacies of the case, and provide a comprehensive overview to help you navigate the often-complex world of vintage Rolex.

A Brief History of the Explorer II 1655

Introduced in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II 1655 was designed for speleologists and explorers venturing into environments where distinguishing day from night was crucial. The fixed 24-hour bezel, coupled with the prominent orange hand, provided a constant reference point for time in 24-hour format. This functionality was paramount for those spending extended periods underground or in polar regions where normal day/night cycles are disrupted.

While not an immediate commercial success, the 1655 gradually gained a cult following, appreciated for its ruggedness, legibility, and unconventional aesthetics. Its distinctive design, initially perceived as somewhat awkward, has since become a defining feature, setting it apart from other Rolex models. Production ran until approximately 1985, leaving a relatively limited number of examples in circulation, contributing to its current desirability.different cases rolex 1655

The Heart of the Matter: Caliber 1575 and Beyond

The Rolex Explorer II 1655 was initially powered by the Caliber 1575 movement, a robust and reliable workhorse that served in various Rolex models. This movement featured a date function, hacking seconds (meaning the second hand stops when the crown is pulled out for precise time setting), and a frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour.

Later in its production run, the 1655 transitioned to the Caliber 1575 GMT movement. While visually identical to the 1575, this updated version incorporated a slightly modified gear train to accommodate the fixed 24-hour hand. Identifying the specific movement within a 1655 requires a watchmaker to open the case, but knowing the approximate year of production can provide a clue, with later models generally featuring the 1575 GMT.

Dial Variations: A Landscape of Minute Differences

The dial is arguably the most visually striking element of any watch, and the Rolex Explorer II 1655 is no exception. Throughout its production run, subtle variations occurred in the dial design, which can significantly impact the value and collectibility of a particular example. These variations include:

* Mark I Dials (circa 1971-1974): These early dials are characterized by their distinct font for the "Explorer II" text and a slightly different shade of orange for the 24-hour hand. The "Rolex" coronet also tends to be slightly more pointed compared to later versions. These are considered the most sought-after by collectors.

* Mark II Dials (circa 1974-1977): These dials feature a slightly altered font for the "Explorer II" text and a more vibrant, almost fluorescent, orange hue for the 24-hour hand. The coronet also appears slightly more rounded.

* Mark III Dials (circa 1977-1985): This is the most common dial variant. The font for "Explorer II" is further refined, and the orange 24-hour hand takes on a slightly more muted, almost faded, appearance. The coronet is consistently rounded.

* Service Dials: These are replacement dials installed by Rolex service centers during repairs. They are usually easily identifiable by their tritium lume markers, which are often brighter and more uniform than those found on original dials. Service dials detract from the value of a vintage 1655, as they are not original to the watch.

Understanding these dial variations requires careful examination and comparison. High-resolution images and expert analysis are essential for accurate identification.

The Case: More Than Just a Container

While the dial often takes center stage, the case of the Rolex Explorer II 1655 is equally important. It’s the foundation of the watch, protecting the movement and contributing to its overall aesthetic. While the overall shape remained consistent throughout the production run, subtle variations in the case finishing, lug shape, and crown guards can be observed.