patek philippe nautilus 3712 a steel | Patek Philippe Nautilus Steel 3712/1A

The Patek Philippe Nautilus. The mere mention of the name conjures images of horological excellence, iconic design, and a price tag that mirrors its exclusivity. Within the revered Nautilus lineage, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712/1A Steel holds a special place, a bridge between the past and the present, a subtle yet significant evolution of Gerald Genta’s groundbreaking design. This article delves deep into the nuances of this remarkable timepiece, exploring its design, history, collectability, and what makes it a truly exceptional example of horological artistry.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712/1A: A Detailed Examination

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712/1A is often considered a transitional model, a stepping stone between the original “Jumbo” 3700/1A and the later, more contemporary iterations of the Nautilus. Produced for a relatively short period, it has become a sought-after piece for collectors, prized for its historical significance and distinctive aesthetic. Its reference number, 3712/1A, signifies its place within the Patek Philippe catalog: "37" representing the Nautilus family, "12" indicating the complication (in this case, a moon phase and power reserve indicator), and "1A" denoting the stainless steel construction.patek philippe nautilus 3712 a steel

A Tribute to the Original 3700: Design and Aesthetics

One of the most compelling aspects of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712/1A is its clear homage to the original Nautilus, the 3700/1A. The influence of Gerald Genta’s initial design is undeniable, evident in the distinctive porthole-shaped case, the horizontally embossed dial, and the integrated bracelet. However, the 3712/1A introduces subtle refinements that set it apart.

The case of the 3712/1A retains the iconic monobloc construction reminiscent of the 3700/1A. This design, characterized by its seamless integration of the case and bezel, contributes to the watch’s robust yet elegant profile. The use of a sapphire crystal caseback is a notable departure from the 3700/1A, which had a solid caseback. This transparent window provides a captivating view of the meticulously finished Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU movement, allowing the wearer to appreciate the intricate mechanics and artistry within.

The stainless steel case measures 42mm in diameter, a size that is considered wearable and versatile by modern standards. More importantly, its 8mm thickness contributes to its remarkably slim profile, allowing it to comfortably slip under a cuff and making it a truly elegant timepiece despite its sporty origins. This slimness is a testament to Patek Philippe's engineering prowess, achieved by housing a complex movement within a relatively thin case.

The Dial: A Symphony of Complications

The dial of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712/1A is arguably its most distinctive feature. Unlike the cleaner, more minimalist dial of the 3700/1A, the 3712/1A incorporates a moon phase indicator, a power reserve indicator, and a subsidiary seconds dial. These additions, while adding complexity, are thoughtfully integrated and do not detract from the overall legibility or aesthetic appeal.

The moon phase indicator is located at the 7 o'clock position, displaying the current phase of the moon with remarkable accuracy. The power reserve indicator is positioned at the 10 o'clock position, allowing the wearer to monitor the remaining power in the movement. The subsidiary seconds dial is located at the 4 o'clock position, providing a subtle yet functional indication of the passing seconds.

The dial itself features the signature horizontal embossing that is characteristic of the Nautilus collection. The applied luminous hour markers and hands ensure excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The overall effect is a harmonious blend of functionality and elegance, a testament to Patek Philippe's mastery of dial design.

The Movement: Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU

At the heart of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3712/1A lies the Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, a self-winding movement that is renowned for its precision, reliability, and exquisite finishing. This movement is a modified version of Patek Philippe's iconic Caliber 240, incorporating the moon phase, power reserve indicator, and subsidiary seconds complications.

The Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU is characterized by its micro-rotor, which is made of 22k gold and is integrated into the movement's architecture. This design allows for a slimmer movement profile, contributing to the overall thinness of the watch. The movement is also equipped with a Gyromax balance, which is designed to improve accuracy and stability.

The finishing of the Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU is truly exceptional, showcasing Patek Philippe's unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. The bridges and plates are meticulously decorated with Geneva stripes, and the edges are beveled and polished by hand. The movement is also adorned with perlage, a circular graining pattern that adds depth and texture. The visible components through the sapphire crystal caseback are a visual treat for any horological enthusiast.