The Rolex Submariner is arguably the most iconic and recognizable dive watch in the world. Its robust construction, timeless design, and unwavering reliability have cemented its place in horological history. While the all-steel versions are undoubtedly popular, the Rolex Submariner in *oro e acciaio* (gold and steel) offers a compelling alternative, blending the rugged functionality of the Submariner with a touch of luxury and sophistication. In this detailed exploration, we will uncover the features that make the Rolex Submariner in gold and steel such an extraordinary and captivating timepiece. The mix of stainless steel and yellow gold is precisely what lends it its unique appeal.
A Marriage of Strength and Elegance: Understanding the Bi-Metal Concept
The concept of combining stainless steel and gold in a single watch isn't new, but Rolex has perfected the art. This bi-metal approach, often referred to as "Rolesor" by Rolex, strikes a balance between the durability and practicality of stainless steel and the inherent value and prestige of gold. In the Submariner, this combination results in a watch that is both tool-like and luxurious, capable of withstanding the rigors of underwater exploration while also making a statement of refined taste.
Deconstructing the Design: Key Features of the Gold and Steel Submariner
Let's delve into the specific elements that define the Rolex Submariner in gold and steel:
* The Case: Typically crafted from Rolex's proprietary Oystersteel (904L stainless steel) for its exceptional corrosion resistance and durability, the case provides the foundation for the watch. Oystersteel is known for its ability to retain its luster even after years of wear. The case size remains consistent with other Submariner models, usually around 40mm or 41mm depending on the specific reference. This size strikes a perfect balance between wrist presence and wearability.
* The Bezel: This is where the gold truly shines. The unidirectional rotating bezel, a crucial feature for divers to track elapsed time underwater, features a Cerachrom (ceramic) insert in a color that complements the dial (often black or blue). The numerals and graduations on the bezel are typically molded into the ceramic and then coated with gold using a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) process. This ensures longevity and prevents the gold from fading or tarnishing. The unidirectional rotation prevents accidental underestimation of dive time, a critical safety feature. The bezel's knurled edge provides a secure grip, even when wearing gloves.
* The Crown: The Triplock winding crown, a patented Rolex innovation, is a screw-down crown that provides exceptional water resistance. In the gold and steel Submariner, the crown is typically crafted from yellow gold, adding another touch of luxury to the design. The Triplock system utilizes three independent sealed zones to ensure watertight integrity.
* The Dial: The dial is the face of the watch and a crucial element of its overall aesthetic. The gold and steel Submariner is available with various dial colors, including the classic black, a vibrant blue, and even sunburst variations. The hour markers are typically applied and filled with Chromalight, Rolex's luminescent material, providing excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The Mercedes hands, a signature feature of the Submariner, are also filled with Chromalight.
* The Bracelet: The Oyster bracelet, a robust and comfortable bracelet made from Oystersteel and yellow gold, is a defining feature of the gold and steel Submariner. The center links are crafted from solid yellow gold, while the outer links are Oystersteel. This combination creates a visually striking and durable bracelet. The Oysterlock clasp, a secure folding clasp with a safety catch, prevents accidental opening. The Glidelock extension system allows for fine adjustments to the bracelet length, ensuring a comfortable fit even when wearing a wetsuit.
* The Movement: The Rolex Submariner is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, typically a Rolex Calibre 3135 (in older models) or a Calibre 3235 (in newer models). These movements are renowned for their precision, reliability, and robustness. They are chronometer-certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), guaranteeing their accuracy. The movements feature a Parachrom hairspring, which is resistant to shocks and magnetic fields, further enhancing their performance.rolex submariner oro e acciaio dettagli
Exploring Specific Models: Reference Numbers and Variations
The Rolex Submariner in gold and steel has been produced in several variations over the years, each with its own unique reference number and subtle differences. Some notable examples include:
* Rolex Submariner 16613: This model, produced from the late 1980s to the early 2000s, features an aluminum bezel insert and a sapphire crystal. It's a classic example of the gold and steel Submariner and is highly sought after by collectors. It often features a blue dial and bezel configuration, affectionately known as the "Bluesy."