For a luxury fashion house like Burberry, the thought is chilling. The brand, synonymous with British heritage, elegance, and aspiration, found itself inextricably linked to a subculture perceived as its antithesis: the "chav." This association, primarily through the widespread adoption of the iconic Burberry check pattern, became a public relations nightmare, forcing the company to undertake a significant rebrand to salvage its image and reaffirm its position in the luxury market. This article delves into the complex history of Burberry, the rise and fall of the "Burberry chav" culture, the factors driving the brand's response, and the lasting impact of this unlikely pairing.
When Was Burberry Established? A Legacy of Innovation and Elegance
To understand the gravity of the "chav" association, it's crucial to appreciate Burberry's rich history and its established place within the fashion world. The company was founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. Initially, Burberry focused on developing outdoor wear, catering to the needs of farmers and sportsmen. Thomas Burberry's innovative spirit led him to invent gabardine, a durable, breathable, and water-resistant fabric that revolutionized outdoor clothing. Gabardine quickly became the cornerstone of Burberry's success, providing the brand with a distinctive identity and a reputation for quality and functionality.
In 1891, Burberry opened a larger store in London, further solidifying its presence in the fashion landscape. The brand's reputation for innovation and quality continued to grow, leading to commissions from the British military. During both World Wars, Burberry supplied trench coats to officers, further cementing its association with British heritage and military prowess. The trench coat, designed with practical features like epaulettes, D-rings, and a storm flap, became a signature Burberry item, symbolizing both functionality and style.
Throughout the 20th century, Burberry continued to expand its product line, introducing accessories, fragrances, and ready-to-wear collections. The brand became synonymous with British luxury, attracting a sophisticated clientele and establishing itself as a global fashion icon. High-profile endorsements and collaborations further enhanced Burberry's image, solidifying its position at the pinnacle of the fashion world. Its association with royalty, celebrities, and high society cemented its place as a symbol of aspiration and refined taste.chavs and burberry
History of Burberry Checks: From Lining to Icon
The Burberry check, now inextricably linked to the brand's identity and the controversy surrounding its appropriation, has a surprisingly humble origin. It was initially introduced in the 1920s as a lining for the brand's iconic trench coats. The pattern, officially known as the "Haymarket Check," featured a beige background with black, white, and red intersecting lines. The discreet placement of the check as a lining meant it wasn't initially intended as a prominent design element.
However, over time, the check pattern gradually emerged as a more visible symbol of the Burberry brand. In the 1960s, the check was introduced on scarves, umbrellas, and luggage, marking a deliberate effort to expand its presence beyond the lining of the trench coat. This strategic decision proved to be highly successful, transforming the Haymarket Check into a recognizable and coveted design element.
The Burberry check quickly gained popularity, becoming a symbol of British elegance and sophistication. Its understated yet distinctive design appealed to a wide range of consumers, from royalty and celebrities to everyday individuals seeking a touch of luxury. The check pattern became a powerful brand identifier, instantly recognizable and associated with quality, heritage, and style. This widespread recognition, while initially beneficial, would later contribute to the brand's struggles with its association with the "chav" culture.
Burberry Nova Check Pattern: A Double-Edged Sword
The specific check pattern that became most closely associated with the "chav" culture is the "Nova Check," a variation of the classic Haymarket Check. The Nova Check features a slightly bolder and more prominent design, with larger squares and more defined lines. While still retaining the beige background and the familiar black, white, and red color palette, the Nova Check offered a more modern and eye-catching aesthetic.
The Nova Check's increased visibility and bolder design contributed to its widespread adoption, particularly among younger consumers. It appeared on a wide range of products, including baseball caps, handbags, and even entire outfits. The accessibility of these items, combined with the Nova Check's striking design, made it particularly appealing to a specific demographic that would ultimately redefine its cultural significance.
Burberry Chav Culture: The Downfall of an Icon?
The rise of the "chav" subculture in the late 1990s and early 2000s marked a turning point for Burberry. The term "chav," a derogatory label used to describe working-class youth often associated with anti-social behavior, tracksuits, and a specific aesthetic, became increasingly prevalent in British society. Unfortunately for Burberry, the Nova Check pattern became a central element of this emerging subculture's visual identity.
The reasons for the Burberry check's adoption by the "chav" subculture are complex and multifaceted. Several factors contributed to this unlikely pairing: