The "Rolex GMT Master Rot Schwarz," affectionately known as the "Coke" bezel GMT-Master II, is an icon in the horological world. This distinct color combination, featuring a red and black Cerachrom bezel, instantly sets it apart and has cemented its place in Rolex history. While historically the GMT-Master was offered primarily on an Oyster bracelet (and still largely is), the versatility and enduring appeal of the "Coke" bezel have made it a highly sought-after model for collectors and enthusiasts alike. This article delves into the intricacies of the Rolex GMT Master Rot Schwarz, covering its history, design, functionality, variations, and everything you need to know if you're considering adding one to your collection.
The Origins and Evolution of the GMT-Masterrolex gmt master rot schwarz
To truly appreciate the Rolex GMT Master Rot Schwarz, understanding the lineage of the GMT-Master itself is essential. Born from a collaboration between Rolex and Pan American Airways in the 1950s, the original GMT-Master (Reference 6542) was designed to assist pilots in tracking multiple time zones simultaneously. This was a crucial innovation in the burgeoning era of international air travel. Pilots needed a reliable and easy way to keep track of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), the standard time used for aviation, as well as their local time.
The GMT-Master achieved this through the addition of a 24-hour hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. By aligning the bezel with the 24-hour hand, pilots could quickly and easily determine the time in a second time zone. The original bezel was made of Bakelite, a type of plastic, and was prone to cracking, leading to its eventual replacement with aluminum.
The GMT-Master evolved through several references, each building upon the previous one. These included the 1675, 16750, and finally, the 16760, which introduced the thicker case and the "Fat Lady" nickname. Each reference brought improvements in movement, materials, and overall design.
The Rise of the "Coke" Bezel: The GMT-Master II 16710
The Rolex GMT Master Rot Schwarz, as we know it today, truly came into its own with the introduction of the GMT-Master II Reference 16710 in the late 1980s. While the 16760 did offer a red and black bezel, the 16710 refined the design and cemented the "Coke" bezel as a distinct and desirable option.
The 16710 was powered by the Caliber 3185 movement (later updated to the 3186), which allowed for independent setting of the 24-hour hand. This "true GMT" function was a significant improvement over previous models, making it easier to track a second time zone. The wearer could adjust the hour hand independently in one-hour increments without stopping the seconds hand or affecting the 24-hour hand, a feature highly valued by travelers.
The aluminum bezel insert of the 16710 was available in three color combinations: the iconic red and black "Coke," the blue and red "Pepsi," and the all-black version. The "Coke" bezel, with its bold and contrasting colors, quickly became a popular choice, offering a sporty and distinctive look.
The 16710 remained in production for nearly two decades, undergoing minor changes over the years. These changes include variations in the dial markings, the bracelet clasp, and the addition of lug holes in the early models. These subtle variations have become points of interest for collectors, adding to the complexity and allure of the 16710.
The Modern "Coke": The GMT-Master II 126710GRNR
After a hiatus, the "Coke" bezel made a triumphant return in 2023 with the introduction of the GMT-Master II Reference 126710GRNR. This modern iteration features a Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel in grey and black, a significant upgrade from the aluminum bezels of the past.
The Cerachrom bezel is incredibly scratch-resistant and resistant to fading from UV exposure, ensuring that the vibrant colors remain intact for years to come. The 126710GRNR is powered by the Caliber 3285 movement, a cutting-edge movement that offers improved accuracy, reliability, and a longer power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Unlike its predecessor, the 126710GRNR is available on both the Oyster bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet, providing buyers with a choice of styles. The Jubilee bracelet offers a dressier look, while the Oyster bracelet maintains the sporty aesthetic of the original GMT-Master.
Understanding the Rolex GMT Master II
Before delving into the specifics of buying a Rolex GMT Master Rot Schwarz, it's important to understand the general characteristics and features of the GMT-Master II line.