burial burberry | Burial soundtracks Burberry Autumn/Winter 2023

The worlds of underground electronic music and high fashion rarely collide with such seismic force. But at London Fashion Week's Autumn/Winter 2023 show, Daniel Lee's debut collection for Burberry wasn't just a statement of intent for the brand; it was a sonic testament to the melancholic beauty and fragmented soul of Burial. The enigmatic producer's signature sound, a tapestry woven from crackling vinyl, disembodied vocals, and echoing beats, provided the soundtrack to Lee's reimagining of Burberry, marking a bold and unexpected turn for the iconic British brand.

Five tracks from Burial's discography – 'Truant', 'Young Death', and others (the specifics of which remain a subject of some speculation and shrouded in the same mystique that surrounds the artist himself) – pulsed through the catwalk, creating an atmosphere that was both familiar and utterly new. Familiar, because Burial's music has become synonymous with a certain kind of urban desolation, a nocturnal wander through rain-slicked streets and forgotten corners. New, because this sonic landscape was now juxtaposed against the meticulously crafted garments of a heritage fashion house, a house traditionally associated with countryside chic and aspirational luxury.

This unexpected pairing has sparked a flurry of discussion and debate, not just within the fashion world, but also amongst Burial's dedicated fanbase. Was this a canny move by Lee to inject a dose of authenticity and urban grit into Burberry's image? Or was it a superficial appropriation of an artist whose work is deeply rooted in a specific cultural context? The answer, as with most things surrounding Burial, is likely far more nuanced.

Burial's Sound: A Landscape of Loss and Longing

To understand the impact of Burial's inclusion in the Burberry show, it's crucial to understand the unique qualities of his music. Burial, the moniker of William Bevan, emerged from the burgeoning dubstep scene of the mid-2000s, but quickly transcended the genre's limitations. His self-titled debut album in 2006 was a revelation, a deeply personal and evocative exploration of London's underbelly.

Burial's music is characterized by:

* Hauntology: This philosophical concept, popularized by Jacques Derrida, refers to the idea that the past continues to haunt the present. Burial's music is steeped in this sense of spectral presence, drawing on samples from old video games, rave tracks, and pirate radio broadcasts, creating a sense of faded memories and lost futures.

* Atmospheric Texture: The crackle and hiss of vinyl, the subtle distortion of the samples, the pervasive rain sounds – these are not mere sonic imperfections; they are integral to the overall atmosphere of Burial's music. They create a sense of claustrophobia and immersion, drawing the listener into a world that feels both familiar and alien.

* Emotional Resonance: Despite the often-abstract nature of his compositions, Burial's music is deeply emotional. It evokes feelings of loneliness, longing, and a profound sense of loss. The disembodied vocals, often distorted and fragmented, add to this sense of emotional vulnerability.

* Urban Dystopia: Burial's music paints a vivid picture of a decaying urban landscape. It's a world of concrete tower blocks, deserted alleyways, and flickering streetlights. It's a world that feels both futuristic and strangely antiquated, a testament to the failures of urban planning and the lingering ghosts of past generations.

This unique sonic palette has resonated with a wide audience, solidifying Burial's place as one of the most influential and enigmatic electronic music producers of the 21st century. His music is not just something to be listened to; it's an experience, a journey into the depths of the urban soul.

Daniel Lee's Burberry: A Shift in Perspective

Daniel Lee's appointment as Chief Creative Officer of Burberry marked a significant turning point for the brand. After a period of relative stagnation, Burberry was looking to regain its relevance and appeal to a younger, more discerning audience. Lee, known for his minimalist and sensual designs at Bottega Veneta, was seen as the perfect candidate to breathe new life into the brand.

Lee's debut collection for Burberry was a clear departure from the brand's traditional aesthetic. While retaining some of the classic Burberry codes – the trench coat, the check pattern – Lee injected a sense of modernity and subversion. The collection featured:

* Deconstructed Silhouettes: Traditional Burberry garments were reimagined with a focus on asymmetry and unexpected cuts.

* Bold Colors and Textures: Lee incorporated a range of vibrant colors and tactile textures, adding a sense of playfulness and experimentation to the collection.

* Urban Influences: The collection drew inspiration from London's street style, incorporating elements of streetwear and sportswear.

* Emphasis on Functionality: Lee prioritized functionality and wearability, creating garments that were both stylish and practical.burial burberry

The choice of Burial's music as the soundtrack for the show was a deliberate decision, intended to underscore this shift in perspective. It was a way of signaling that Burberry was no longer just a brand for the countryside set; it was a brand that understood and embraced the complexities of urban life.

The Collision: Hauntology Meets High Fashion