When it was announced that the new creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, was going to change the name of the brand to Saint Laurent Paris, shockwaves rippled through the fashion world. The change, while seemingly simple, represented a significant shift in the brand's identity and sparked a heated debate about legacy, heritage, and the evolving landscape of luxury fashion. This article delves into the complexities of the rebranding, exploring the motivations behind it, the reactions it elicited, and the lasting impact it has had on the house of Saint Laurent. We will also address common questions surrounding the brand, its founder, its ownership, and its digital presence.
The Reign of Yves Saint Laurent: A Foundation of Revolution
To understand the weight of the name change, one must first appreciate the profound influence of Yves Saint Laurent the founder. Born in Oran, Algeria, in 1936, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (as he was originally known) possessed a precocious talent for fashion design. His sketches caught the eye of Michel de Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue, who recognized his exceptional potential. This led to an apprenticeship with Christian Dior at the tender age of 18.
Following Dior's sudden death in 1957, the then 21-year-old Saint Laurent was thrust into the role of artistic director, becoming the youngest designer to ever head a major Parisian fashion house. His first collection, "Trapeze," was a resounding success, liberating women from the restrictive wasp-waisted silhouettes of the Dior era. This marked the beginning of Saint Laurent's revolutionary approach to fashion.
Saint Laurent’s vision extended beyond mere aesthetics. He sought to empower women through clothing, introducing groundbreaking designs that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine. He democratized fashion by taking inspiration from the streets and translating it into haute couture. Key milestones in his career include:
* Le Smoking (1966): Perhaps his most iconic creation, Le Smoking was a tuxedo suit designed for women. It challenged traditional gender roles and became a symbol of female empowerment and liberation.
* The Mondrian Collection (1965): This collection featured dresses inspired by the abstract paintings of Piet Mondrian, demonstrating Saint Laurent's ability to seamlessly integrate art and fashion.
* The Safari Jacket (1968): Another example of Saint Laurent's ability to translate utilitarian garments into high fashion, the safari jacket became a timeless classic.
* The Introduction of Rive Gauche (1966): This ready-to-wear line made high fashion accessible to a wider audience, further democratizing the industry and paving the way for the modern ready-to-wear market.
Yves Saint Laurent's impact on fashion is undeniable. He revolutionized the way women dressed, empowering them with bold, modern, and sophisticated designs. He challenged conventions, broke boundaries, and created a lasting legacy that continues to inspire designers today. His name, Yves Saint Laurent, became synonymous with innovation, elegance, and a rebellious spirit.
Hedi Slimane's Arrival and the Rebranding Controversy
In 2012, Hedi Slimane, known for his skinny silhouettes and rock-and-roll aesthetic, was appointed creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. Slimane's appointment signaled a shift in direction for the brand, and his first major decision – the rebranding to Saint Laurent Paris – ignited a firestorm of controversy.
The rationale behind the name change, as explained by the brand, was to return to the house's origins. The "Paris" was added to emphasize the brand's Parisian heritage and its connection to the city's artistic and cultural scene. The decision to drop "Yves" was seen as a way to modernize the brand and appeal to a younger audience. Slimane also oversaw a complete overhaul of the brand's visual identity, including a new logo and store design.
However, the change was met with widespread criticism. Many felt that it was a disrespectful erasure of Yves Saint Laurent's legacy. Critics argued that the name "Yves Saint Laurent" was iconic and instantly recognizable, and that dropping "Yves" diminished the brand's heritage and history. The move was seen as a purely commercial decision, driven by a desire to appeal to a broader market and increase profits.
The controversy surrounding the rebranding extended beyond the name itself. Slimane's aesthetic direction for the brand was also met with mixed reactions. While some praised his edgy and youthful designs, others felt that they strayed too far from the classic elegance and sophistication that had defined Yves Saint Laurent for so long.
The Impact of the Rebranding: A New Era for Saint Laurent
Despite the initial backlash, the rebranding of Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris proved to be commercially successful. Under Slimane's direction, the brand experienced significant growth in revenue, driven by the popularity of his designs and the brand's increased visibility.
Slimane's vision successfully attracted a younger, more affluent customer base. His rock-and-roll inspired collections resonated with a new generation of fashion enthusiasts, and the brand's marketing campaigns, featuring celebrities and influencers, further amplified its appeal.