The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A-001 in stainless steel, with its captivating blue dial and intricate moon phase complication, occupies a revered position within the pantheon of luxury timepieces. It's a watch that transcends mere horological functionality, evolving into a symbol of understated elegance, refined taste, and enduring value. While the discontinuation of the iconic Nautilus 5711/1A sent shockwaves through the watch collecting world, the 5712/1A continues to represent a compelling alternative, offering a unique blend of complexity and wearability that distinguishes it from its more ubiquitous sibling.
This article delves into the intricacies of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A-001, exploring its design, movement, history, market value, and its place within the larger context of the Nautilus family, particularly in relation to the discontinued 5711/1A and the various coveted iterations that emerged in recent years, including the highly sought-after "Tiffany Blue" and "Green Dial" models.
A Study in Asymmetrical Harmony: The Design of the 5712/1A-001
The appeal of the Nautilus 5712/1A-001 stems from its unique and arguably more intriguing design compared to the arguably more streamlined 5711/1A. While both watches share the distinctive porthole-inspired case shape, the 5712/1A-001 distinguishes itself through its asymmetrical dial layout. This deliberate asymmetry, far from being jarring, contributes to the watch's character and visual interest.
* The Case: The 40mm stainless steel case, with its iconic rounded octagonal bezel, remains a hallmark of the Nautilus design. The combination of brushed and polished surfaces creates a play of light that accentuates the watch's contours. The case is relatively thin, allowing it to slip comfortably under a cuff, further enhancing its wearability as an everyday luxury piece.
* The Dial: The blue dial is arguably the defining feature of the 5712/1A-001. It's not just any blue, but a nuanced shade that shifts and changes depending on the lighting conditions. The horizontal embossed pattern, a characteristic of the Nautilus line, adds depth and texture to the dial. The applied luminous hour markers and hands ensure legibility in low-light conditions.
* The Complications: Unlike the time-only 5711/1A, the 5712/1A-001 boasts a suite of complications, including:
* Moon Phase: Located at the 7 o'clock position, the moon phase indicator adds a touch of romanticism and horological artistry to the dial.patek philippe nautilus ref 5712 1a-001 stainless steel
* Date: The date is displayed via a subdial at the 7 o'clock position, integrated with the moon phase indicator.
* Small Seconds: Positioned at the 4 o'clock position, the small seconds subdial provides a subtle indication of the watch's running status.
* Power Reserve Indicator: Located between the 10 and 11 o'clock positions, the power reserve indicator allows the wearer to monitor the watch's remaining power, ensuring it doesn't unexpectedly stop.
* The Bracelet: The integrated stainless steel bracelet seamlessly flows from the case, maintaining the continuity of the design. The bracelet is incredibly comfortable to wear, thanks to its meticulously crafted links and secure folding clasp. The alternating brushed and polished finishes mirror those of the case, creating a cohesive and visually appealing aesthetic.
The Heart of the Matter: The Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU
Beneath the sapphire crystal case back lies the Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, a micro-rotor automatic movement that is a testament to Patek Philippe's horological prowess. This movement is not only technically impressive but also aesthetically beautiful, with its meticulously finished components and exquisite decoration.
* Micro-Rotor: The use of a micro-rotor, crafted from 22K gold, allows for a thinner movement profile, contributing to the overall slimness of the watch. The micro-rotor is decorated with the Patek Philippe seal, a symbol of the brand's commitment to quality and excellence.
* Complications: The Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU powers the moon phase, date, small seconds, and power reserve indicator complications. The smooth and precise operation of these complications is a testament to the movement's engineering.
* Finishing: The movement is meticulously finished by hand, with Geneva stripes, perlage, and anglage adorning the bridges and plates. The level of detail and craftsmanship is truly exceptional, making the movement a work of art in its own right.
* Performance: The Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU is a reliable and accurate movement, providing a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz).
The Nautilus Legacy: A Brief History